Micheal darvell pays his first visit to a celebrated indian diner.

Although I have been doing restaurant reviews for as long as its been open, until last week I had never eaten at Khan's in Westbourne Grove. I had walked past it often enough and noted how busy it always is. I had heard tales of its legendary status among Indian restaurants, the food was first rate and the prices very cheap, but I had never before tried it for my self.

After just one meal at Khan's, I have to say I am an immediate Khan's convert. I think that there is a lesson here for many restaurants Indian or otherwise in that, if Khan's can fill their enormous restaurant of 350 covers and charge the lowest prices in London, why cannot other establishments do the same?

I read in one of the restaurant guides that Khan's resembles an Indian railway station and indeed, when I was there the words Bhowani Junction sprang to mind. Its a vast space humming with movement with customers and waiters rushing around and a very satisfying hubbub of noise that constantly hits the air. Its actually very pleasing to be amongst a throng of people chatting and eating, who are obviously there because they know they are going to like their food and, whats more, are not going to be charged an arm and a leg when they leave. There are two huge main rooms on the ground floor and more in the basement. A bar occupies the right-hand side and the decor is suitably exotic with ceilings-high columns sculpted with palms. The high ceilings increase the decibel level but it never becomes unbearably noisy. It is what all restaurants should be like lively, buzzy, enjoyable. It offers a unique atmosphere and it is one you ought to experience for yourself.